The discussion about whether to use a curbstrap or not has come up on several Facebook Horse Groups has been touched on briefly on the main bit group. I think it needs more information and discussion because I'm seeing it more and more.
Curb bits are meant to be used with curbstraps. It helps balance the bit, provides a "brake" for rotation and prevents the bit from getting into the molars. You are not being kinder to your horse by not using one. If it is a curb bit put a properly adjusted curbstrap on it.
With a curb the bit has a "brake" on it*. The bit can only rotate as far as the curb allows. Once the curbstrap engages fully all pressure added is to the tongue and bars directly, with no further poll pressure and no further rotation. With a properly adjusted curbstrap the bit will not reach the molars.
What is properly adjusted? The most common is a ""two finger" adjustment. This is between the curbstrap and jaw bone, not the indentation between the jaws. This adjustment should allow the bit to rotate to 45 degrees and no further. Some multi jointed bits need a tight curbstrap to take up some of the play in the bit. And a standard rule of thumb is "the higher the port the tighter the curbstrap" as you do not want a lot of rotation with a high port. the goal is to prevent the port from digging into the palate. You signal with the bit, not crank on it.
Without a curbstrap the bit has no "brake". It can rotate fully AND continue to pull down on the poll and stretch the lips up as long as the bit rotates. It also allows the cannons of the bit to go up into the molars. This usually results in gaping and the horse poking his nose out, which pulls the bit further into the molars. Without a curbstrap a bit becomes an inverse lever, as the fulcrum is the purchase and the cannons can actually be lifted above the purchase depending on how hard the pull is. Think about lifting the tailgate of a pickup that has a load sitting on it. The fulcrum is the base of the tailgate attached to the pickup and you are lifting from that point. It's hard. Nothing helps you lift the load, because the load is still pushing down on the fulcrum. So you not only bear the load's weight you have to apply more pressure to move. So your weight and the load's weight is now sitting on the fulcrum. This is what a curb bit without a curbstrap does. You are applying all the weight to the purchase and lifting the mouthpiece in the mouth, stretching the lips, which push back down, and increasing the load the fulcrum, and everything under it, has to bear. The pressure on the poll is extreme, because as you pull up on the reins the bridle is pulling down.
* a curb strap does not stop the rotation or pressure from gag action curbs or lifter bits.
So what is a good curbstrap to use? Like almost all horse equipment wider means more weight dispersement and thinner means sharper action. Leather is softer and more flexible than chain, flat link chain is better than solid metal or standing link chain. For every gentle curbstrap out there some jerk has created a nasty one for the sole intention of causing pain. The chart above shows the most common gentle and severe curbstraps. Flat leather is probably the most common, especially in western. The new generation of horse abusing jerks have started the trend for the last two, the standing link and the power bar curbs. Both are very severe and are illegal to show in.
If you use a curb bit, use a curb strap or curb chain. Don't try to do a job with only half the equipment. And you're not being kinder to leave it off, you're making the action worse. So do your horse a favor and use the bit as it was meant to be used, you'll both be happier in the end.
Tracy Meisenbach
Copyright June 2016
Do not copy, reprint or publish without author's express written permission.
Stark Naked Bits, get serious, ride naked!
Curb bits are meant to be used with curbstraps. It helps balance the bit, provides a "brake" for rotation and prevents the bit from getting into the molars. You are not being kinder to your horse by not using one. If it is a curb bit put a properly adjusted curbstrap on it.
With a curb the bit has a "brake" on it*. The bit can only rotate as far as the curb allows. Once the curbstrap engages fully all pressure added is to the tongue and bars directly, with no further poll pressure and no further rotation. With a properly adjusted curbstrap the bit will not reach the molars.
What is properly adjusted? The most common is a ""two finger" adjustment. This is between the curbstrap and jaw bone, not the indentation between the jaws. This adjustment should allow the bit to rotate to 45 degrees and no further. Some multi jointed bits need a tight curbstrap to take up some of the play in the bit. And a standard rule of thumb is "the higher the port the tighter the curbstrap" as you do not want a lot of rotation with a high port. the goal is to prevent the port from digging into the palate. You signal with the bit, not crank on it.
Without a curbstrap the bit has no "brake". It can rotate fully AND continue to pull down on the poll and stretch the lips up as long as the bit rotates. It also allows the cannons of the bit to go up into the molars. This usually results in gaping and the horse poking his nose out, which pulls the bit further into the molars. Without a curbstrap a bit becomes an inverse lever, as the fulcrum is the purchase and the cannons can actually be lifted above the purchase depending on how hard the pull is. Think about lifting the tailgate of a pickup that has a load sitting on it. The fulcrum is the base of the tailgate attached to the pickup and you are lifting from that point. It's hard. Nothing helps you lift the load, because the load is still pushing down on the fulcrum. So you not only bear the load's weight you have to apply more pressure to move. So your weight and the load's weight is now sitting on the fulcrum. This is what a curb bit without a curbstrap does. You are applying all the weight to the purchase and lifting the mouthpiece in the mouth, stretching the lips, which push back down, and increasing the load the fulcrum, and everything under it, has to bear. The pressure on the poll is extreme, because as you pull up on the reins the bridle is pulling down.
* a curb strap does not stop the rotation or pressure from gag action curbs or lifter bits.
So what is a good curbstrap to use? Like almost all horse equipment wider means more weight dispersement and thinner means sharper action. Leather is softer and more flexible than chain, flat link chain is better than solid metal or standing link chain. For every gentle curbstrap out there some jerk has created a nasty one for the sole intention of causing pain. The chart above shows the most common gentle and severe curbstraps. Flat leather is probably the most common, especially in western. The new generation of horse abusing jerks have started the trend for the last two, the standing link and the power bar curbs. Both are very severe and are illegal to show in.
If you use a curb bit, use a curb strap or curb chain. Don't try to do a job with only half the equipment. And you're not being kinder to leave it off, you're making the action worse. So do your horse a favor and use the bit as it was meant to be used, you'll both be happier in the end.
Tracy Meisenbach
Copyright June 2016
Do not copy, reprint or publish without author's express written permission.
Stark Naked Bits, get serious, ride naked!
